How To Unclog A Bath Tub Drain Part – I


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For the most part, a drain that completely stops flowing can not easily be restored to full operating condition. Clogged drains usually occur over time. That means, the drain began restriction with gradual buildup and finally, something went down the drain and closed the remaining orifice. Or, a shift in loose, heavy buildup closed the narrowing pipe to come to a complete stoppage. What ever the cause, the fact remains, the drain is clogged and you need flow restored.

Tub drains are surprisingly unpredictable as to what you will need to clear the drain. For plumbing, sewer and drain cleaning companies who work on flat rate, showers and tubs are where the technician can lose money, working on a difficult drain line.

If your tub is slow, you may try a home made concoction of baking soda and vinegar. (This is a trick used to create movement. No one Anchor Sewer and Drain Cleaning has spoken to has ever reported clearing a blockage with vinegar and baking soda. However, plenty of advisers are giving their clients this information. This article was originally written June 2013. Today, 10-27-14, a customer reported attempting this remedy. No success.)

Bail as much of the water from the tub as you can. Wait about an hour. Then, pour a half a cup of baking soda into the drain of the tub. Follow it by a half cup of vinegar and allow it to sit for about 3 hours. (When adding the vinegar, pour it quickly into the drain and pull yourself away. The two ingredients will react causing fumes and foaming action.) It does not matter how accurate you are at getting the vinegar into the mouth of the drain because the tub is designed to drain to the mouth of the drain.

Tightly stuff a cloth or sponge into the overflow so it will not fall into the piping. Use a flexible plunger. Not a plunger with a funnel on the end. Nor a plunger you feel you have to stand on to get it to work. You want to center the plunger over the mouth of the drain, run a little water and plunge rapidly for about five seconds. Remove the plunger and take note as to how much water is draining out. If the water has run out completely, run water into the tub to see if the tub drains normally. If it is at the least, slow, plunge the tub while water is flowing from the spout. If you still have a clogged tub drain, take note of the blunt instrument being inserted through the overflow in the diagram above. You will need to attempt cabling the drain with a drain snake. Many home owners perform these steps and do not have success at freeing a clogged tub drain. Don’t feel bad. Call a drain cleaning company.Before you do, there is one more post in this blog that may help. It is titled, “ My Tub Won’t Drain”.

Diagnosing and fixing the drainage problem for a sink, shower or bathtub may be a long and difficult process. Be safe. If fixing the issue is something that is risky or not being understood, contact a drain service company. The range of pricing for a company who cares to do the job correctly is within $145.00 – $225.00. This depends on material used in piping, age of the house which would help the plumber understand the plumbing code that was used in assembling the plumbing system, access to the plumbing and what is assumed to be creating the blockage.

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Pipe Video Inspection in Smithfield, RI, Clogged Toilet in Smithfield, RI, Septic problems in Franklin, Ma, Clogged Sink in Franklin, Ma&Clogged Toilet in Franklin, Ma

Sewer Cleaning Service Part – I


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Sewer cleaning service arrived as a necessity in the evolution of plumbing systems.

1935 is the approximate era of bell and spigot gasket type sewer systems. In the manner this pipe is assembled to carry sewage, a bell and spigot gasket piped sewer eventually lead to an effective means of clearing blockages. “Sewer Cleaning” was not a term used in the English language. In fact, the popular terminology was, “Rooting”.

Consider, for a moment, how the word “Rooting” fits into the sewer cleaning industry. We hear the term applied in some tense when we call a sewer cleaning service. Adding a hint, the words, “Rooter Man”, “Mr. Rooter”, “Roto Rooter”, …etc. all being company titles, originate from the act of “rooting” a sewer line.

As gasket piping became the preferred method of constructing a sewer system, the moniker, “Rooter Man” became a household term. Reason being, gaskets in the piping eventually rotted or leaked. As the nutrient rich waste water seeped into the earth, vegetation found its way into the sewer system. The result, root intrusion. Roots had to be removed from the sewer line.

Sewer cleaning services involving the removal of sewer blockages caused by root intrusion began to spring up. The sewer service would be summonsed. When the sewer cleaning service arrived, a knock on the door would be followed by an announcement. “Rooter Man”!

Rooter man became the popular terminology of the day for this sewer cleaning service. Reason being, roots grew into the sewer, the sewer service called the method of freeing the sewer from root intrusion, “Rooting” or “Rodding”.

Rooting and Rodding was done by pushing a long, flat, barbed ended rod into the cleanout of the sewer. The hope was to push the barbed end into the blockage, twist and yank as much of the root intrussion out of the sewer as the sewer cleaning service could. Flow was restored. However, once root intrusion had occurred, the process had to be repeated over intervals of a few months.

A sewer cleaning technican by the name of Sam Blanc practiced maintenance of his own sewer. Sam thought, there must be a better way as he worked from his basement. The idea came while observing the oscillating action of his wife’s ringer cloths washing machine. Commandeering the motor from the washing machine, fabricating a woven steel basket and using a coil of sprung steel, Sam Blanc invented the worlds first rotational rooting machine.

The technique in rooting with the flat, barbed end bar was to stab and twist. Sam considered this action with the idea of a cutting blade. But, not just stabbing and twisting. Advancing the cable, sweeping the outside wall and cutting.

Sam Blanc set out with the family car and a trailer in tow. On the trailer, “The Roto Rooter”. Seemingly, overnight, The Roto Rooter sewer cleaning machine was being seen in the use of eliminating root intrusion across the country. Demand for supply gave birth to machine shops under the name, RotoRooter. The purchase of the “Roto Rooter” machine and the accessories became the purchase of a Roto Rooter franchise.

Today, the offenders of sewer blockage vary. The industry still sees plenty of pipe suffering from root intrusion. However, inappropriate use of the sewer is a larger culprit. “Flushable wipes” are considered “flushable” due to the fact they generally make it out of the toilet when the trip lever is depressed. However, they do tend to accumulate in the sewer line.

Grease is also large on the offending agent list. Hardened and soft accumulations of grease are difficult to clear from the sewer line. Therefore, the sewer and drain cleaning industry implements fine, high pressure jets of water to erode and flush the sewer of grease blockages.

Anchor Sewer and Drain Cleaning has all of the services available for clearing sewer blockages in homes and the place of business. Sewer size should not be more than 5″ in diameter when contacting Anchor Sewer and Drain Service to restore flow to your sewer line.

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at My Dishwasher Won’t Drain in North Smithfield , RI, Garbage Disposal Not Working in North Smithfield , RI, Septic Tank Problems in North Smithfield , RI, Septic Tank Maintenance in North Smithfield , RI&Septic problems in North Smithfield , RI

Clogged Sink In North Smithfield , RI


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Oddly, you may find standing water at the basin of your dishwasher. Spare your concern. There are a few common causes which may be remedied quickly and cost effectively. Calm down, put on your thinking cap and set aside ideas of costly repairs or replacement. (For standing water but the water drains out when you set the dishwasher to drain, see Coffee Grounds and Egg Shells in My Dishwasher )

If your dishwasher will not drain, try manually setting the dishwasher to rinse. The dishwasher should drain and refill. (Some dishwashers are digital. You will not have the option of selecting the cycle.)

If manually setting the dishwasher to drain does not get the pump to discharge and allow the dishwasher to refill, try clearing the float.

The float switch tells the dishwasher when to interrupt the fill cycle and not allow anymore water into the basin of the dishwasher. However, it also serves for another purpose, that is to tell the pump to discharge and empty water from the basin.

The float switch may be described as what appears to be an upside down cup. Often, this switch gets jammed with food particles or other debris that did not make it to the garbage can or garbage disposer. In order to clear the float, some rotate and allow you to remove the cover. Others rotate and or lift up and down. Try clearing the float. If this does not work, there may be a problem with the pump or some other aspect of relaying the message to discharge water. You will then need to call an appliance repair man. Calling a repair man is not very expensive. Most will diagnose and give you a free estimate to make the repair.

You may also find food particles stuck in the strainer/filter. Remove this item and rinse it. Below that, there is an inlet to the pump. Use a shop vac to draw particles of food out of this drain. There may even be a screw, or two holding a cover over the impeller. Remove the screws and use your vacuum to clear the chamber.

A garbage disposer may also be the culprit. Your garbage disposer is generally where your dishwasher discharges to. If your dishwasher discharges to the side of the garbage disposal, you may of, at one time attempted to use your garbage disposer inappropriately. Inappropriate use is to believe you can dispose of organic garbage by grinding it and flushing the debris through your plumbing drain lines. (Remember, garbage disposals were originally intended as a companion to the dishwasher. Not to the trash compactor.

Any type of fibrous rind or vegetable is unacceptable to use your garbage disposer to dispose of it in. Celery is so fibrous, one looses more calories consuming and digesting celery than one would gain. As for the garbage disposer attempting to act as a trash compactor, fibers from rinds and other fibrous organics can become trapped in the grinding chamber of the disposer, acting as a plug. The plug, of course blocks water on the dishwasher discharge hose. And, therefore, the pump on the dishwasher can not push water through to the drain.

When attempting to get an appliance repair person to give you a free estimate, do ask over the phone if they offer free estimates before the technician is dispatched. If you suspect your kitchen drain line is the culprit, contact us here.

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Septic Remediation in North Smithfield , RI, Sewer Jetting in North Smithfield , RI, Clogged Drain in North Smithfield , RI, Pipe Video Inspection in North Smithfield , RI&Clogged Sink in North Smithfield , RI

Unclog My Main Sewer Line


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Snaking a sewer is not something an inexperienced person should attempt. It can be dangerous, causing sickness and or injury. However, rental facilities and home improvement stores encourage people to venture into performing such task. Therefore, you will need some coaching before going at it alone. Here are a list of questions you will want to ask yourself before you attempt to clear a blockage from your sewer line.

  • Are you on a septic system?
  • Do you have a back water valve on your sewer line?
  • Do you have a house trap on your sewer line?
  • Do believe you have roots in your sewer line?
  • Do you have a lift station in line with your sewer?
  • Are you using the correct machine and adequate size cable?


Are you using the correct machine and adequate size cable? If you are on septic and not city sewer, you should first perform a visual inspection of your septic system to be sure your septic tank is sending effluent to the leach field. If not, put cabling your sewer on hold until you have an understanding as to why your septic system is failing. If you attempt to cable the main sewer line from inside the house, you must know if you remove the cleanout plug without caution, you could find yourself standing in a lot of sewage.

Running a cable downstream, toward a septic tank can cause you problems. For example if your send your cable too far out into the tank, the cable can get tangled in the tank. Chances of getting it out without having to go in the tank and retrieve it are slim. So, be careful as to how far out you allow your cable to travel. Most of the time, cabling a sewer line can be done from the tank to the house.

If you have a back water valve:

attempt to discover where the blockage is on the sewer line. The back water valve itself can hold debris and cause a blockage. If the blockage is in the back water valve, this takes patience and skill to relieve the blockage. Do not push a cable through the back water valve. Especially if there is no access to service the valve. You may not be able to retrieve the cable without excavating. If you determine the blockage is downstream of the back water valve or in the back water valve, find an access point on that end and attempt to cable from there. A safe and effective method for relieving a blockage in the back water valve or down stream of it, is by using a sewer bladder.

A sewer bladder is used to create positive pressure on the blockage. Attach a garden hose to a hose bib and the female threaded end of the sewer bladder to the male end of the hose. Insert the sewer bladder in to the pipe so that no part of the bladder protrudes over an opening or a branch fitting. The bladder expands with water pressure. If the bladder does not have equal pressure on all sides of the bladder, the bladder can over inflate and rupture.

Another tip in using a sewer bladder is, there should be no branch line downstream of the bladder. If there are branch fittings (meaning, drain lines pouring into the line you are working on), attempt to get the bladder past the branch fitting. Or, find an access point where you know there are no other openings for the pressurized water to be diverted to.

If you are pressurizing a sewer line, and there is an opening between the bladder and the blockage, the pressurized water will divert to the fixture that open drain line serves. You may still be able to clear the blockage with the head pressure you are creating. However, be careful because the water may overflow a sink or shower elsewhere.

Roots are another issue that can cause a cable to become stuck in the sewer line. Again, here is another opportunity to spend thousands of dollars having the line excavated.

If you have a lift station, your cable can get entwined with electrical cables, chains and rope all found in the holding tank of the lift station.

House traps present their own problems. If your sewer has a house trap also known as a main line trap, you should understand where to cable from, what direction the cable will travel and how to avoid having to put a lot of force on the cable. You don’t want to force the cable. Especially if the reason the cable is not going anywhere is due to the possibility of your cable sitting against a cleanout cover on the trap.

Diagnosing and fixing the drainage problem for a sink, shower or bathtub may be a long and difficult process. Be safe. If fixing the issue is something that is risky or not being understood, contact a drain service company. The range of pricing for a company who cares to do the job correctly is within $145.00 – $225.00. This depends on material used in piping, age of the house which would help the plumber understand the plumbing code that was used in assembling the plumbing system, access to the plumbing and what is assumed to be creating the blockage.

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Sewer Blockage/Clogged Drain in Cumberland, RI, Septic Remediation in Cumberland, RI, Sewer Blockage/Clogged Drain in Milford, Ma, Clogged Sink in Franklin, Ma&Clogged Toilet in Franklin, Ma



Drain Vent And Waste


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The following diagram illustrates problems had with improper drain systems. Here, we see a kitchen sink drain line having excessive bends and length of pipe in the composition of the drain line.

This kitchen sink drain diagram illustrates inefficient piping.

  1. Too many elbows (This diagram illustrates 7 bends, not including the trap. Sometimes, there is no other choice but to use the number of bends you end up using when we consider trying to get the drain from the sink to the stack.)
  2. Length of the drain line (Again, this problem may not be avoidable)
  3. Inside diameter of the pipe for the application
  4. Poor venting


From the kitchen sink, the piping generally disappears into the wall behind the cabinet. The piping will run horizontally to a tee. From the tee, the pipe will become vertical. Gravity will lead water down from the branch of the tee. And, air will flow in from above the tee, through the sewer or plumbing vent. Proper installation of the plumbing system will determine problems or efficiency in the use of the drain. In the diagram above, the vertical pipe from the tee leads down to a 90 degree bend. The pipe travels horizontally for a short distance and then drops from a second 90 degree bend. Following the drop, there is a third 90 degree bend then the pipe is horizontal until it runs over to the stack and meets a 45 degree bend and then drops into the sewer.

The use of 90 degree bends should be avoided where possible. What occurs is, the grey water from the kitchen sink becomes vented when it drops through the branch of the tee. However, the ventilation is lost as soon as the waste water piles in the 90 degree bend after dropping from the tee. From there, the grey water, levels out and is now vented from the air in the sewer. But, then there is a second horizontal drop where the water meets another 90 bend. The water will level off and then travel to the sewer.

You may be wondering why the 90 degree bends are a problem. The answer is, the vent is choked off, water stops flowing until the air inside the pipe can vent it. The waste water may carry debris that will lodge itself in the bends of the pipe or in imperfect pitched pipe. Once this occurs, the build up will become a restriction and then, eventually a blockage. If the use of 90 degree bends is necessary, consider using long sweep 90 degree bends. Or, use 2 – 45 degree bends to make a long sweep 90. Using 2 – 45 degree bends will allow a longer turn radius. The affect a long turn radius has, is to allow water and air to have a more laminar flow through the bend then would occur if the bend was a tight 90 degree turn radius. Where possible, use 45 degree bends to move the sewage through vertical to horizontal transitions. This allows the vent line to be maintained. Also, determine the amount of volume that will pass from the sink. The standard for drains found in a home is based on a 1- 1/4″ to 1-1/2″ drain from the fixture. Your drainage line should be 11/2″ to 2″ diameter, depending on the use. If you are piping a bathroom sink drain, you can reliably use 11/2″ drain pipe to discharge water from the sink to the sewer. If you are piping a kitchen sink with more than one compartment, be sure to drain each compartment to an 1-1/2″ pipe then to a larger pipe when branching to the other compartments. This will allow air flow to continue when two compartments drain simultaneously.

The following video is taken from a project we were involved in, to re-pipe a drain line. The total linear footage for the kitchen drain line was approximately 75 feet. Piping a drain line for this distance is impossible to keep proper pitch (1/4″ fall for every 12″ of horizontal travel) in residential joist. In order to give the pipe proper pitch, the pipe needs to be routed to an outside wall, while remaining in the joist, at 1/4″ per foot pitch. As soon as a wall is reached, drop into the wall ( or, in our case…onto the basement wall where studs will be placed later) and use the vertical space inside the wall to run the distance.

In running excessively long lines for drainage, one of the most common problems is blockages occur as the drain line remains the same diameter throughout the distance of the drain line. What eventually occurs is occlusion. The pipe will eventually lose its vent line as the pipe fills with debris. If we maintain our pitch and increase the pipe size, adding clean outs (keeping them accessible) we can maintain these long lines. Also, we have the ability to monitor the flow in the line with clean outs.

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Drain and Sewer Maintenance in Woonsocket, RI, Clogged Drain in Woonsocket, RI, Sewer Cleaning in Woonsocket, RI, Drain Cleaning in Woonsocket, RI&Sewer and Drain Maintenance in Woonsocket, RI

Bathroom Sink Odor


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Bathroom sink odor occurs by virtue of what the sink does. It drains grey water. (Poor venting can also be the culprit behind bathroom sink drain odor. We will get to that. But first, let’s discuss the build and use of the sink.)

The bathroom sink carries bacteria from washed hands, cleaning stains from clothing and brushing teeth. Because the drain assembly allows for air to get to the moistened piping below the mouth of the drain, bacteria, mold and mildew settle into the drain assembly. With the bacteria that gets washed down the drain, the drain assembly is a natural sort of petri dish. With use, mold, mildew and bacterial growth continue and sink odor is what alarms us to a need to investigate the source.

Anatomy of a bathroom sink drain:                                               

Above the trap, there is usually about 14″ of pipe that is open to air. This is the tail piece and the pop-up assembly. Here is where every home’s built in petri dish resides.

In order to treat this part of the bathroom sink drain and inhibit odor causing bacteria from growing, the homeowner must be able to get an anti-microbial to the drain assembly and the overflow. (The overflow is locate just below the sink rim. Normally on the front or back of the basin).

One of the anti-microbial solutions that can be found on the shelves at The Home Depot is a product called Micro Ban found in a line of cleaners under the brand name, “Legend”. (HOWEVER, BE CAREFUL. IF YOU HAVE A SEPTIC SYSTEM, YOU DO NOT WANT TO INTRODUCE ANTI BACTERIA AGENTS INTO YOUR PIPES. YOU WILL WIPE OUT YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM.) The use of bleach kills almost any type of bacteria. However, mold only spores and becomes air born. This means, if you decide to ignore good advice and use bleach to kill mold, you may cause it to spore and lodge wherever it lands. That could be in your lungs or someone else’s.

Use a spray bottle to get the Micro Ban cleaner into the overflow. Dowse the overflow generously, as the flow will develop and then only trail in one part of the overflow conductor. Then poor about five ounces of micro ban into the drain assembly of the sink. This should inundate the piping and allow for a well treated drain line.

There is only two other methods of getting an anti-microbial to the overflow and the drain.

  • If your bathroom sink’s drain pipe has a flush mounted (Dandy) clean out in line, you could purchase an inflatable test ball to stop water in the line. Then fill the line with an antimicrobial up to the rim of the sink.
  • You could also remove the sink from the wall….(Turn the water to the sink off. Remove the trap and the supply tubes) now take the sink off the wall and soak it in an anti-microbial.

A second product recommended by Anchor Sewer and Drain Cleaning is, RX-66 Bio Enzyme Digester, by Airx Laboratories.

About the trap. The trap is supposed to be filled with water in order to bar gases coming from the sewer and entering the dwelling. However, if the trap does not have water in it, naturally, gas will emanate from the drain. If your trap does not hold water, call a sewer and drain cleaner or a plumber to investigate. We did say earlier we would provide more information on “poor venting”. Here it is:

A customer called describing a sewer gas odor coming from his kitchen sink, bathroom sink and tub drain. Upon visiting, we could see the kitchen sink drain was not connected to a vent. What made matters even more intolerable for the drains around the house is, there was a garbage disposal unit on the kitchen sink. Without a vent on the kitchen sink and the use of a garbage disposer, water is being pumped through unvented pipe and air has to be pulled into the pipe from somewhere. That somewhere is by a vacuum being created in the drain lines. The water in the traps in the tub and the sink is sucked into the sewer line, leaving the traps with no water. The absence of water in the traps, is to allow sewer gas to enter the dwelling through the sink and tub drains. (Traps are installed to trap water which seals out gases)

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Septic Remediation in Woonsocket, RI, Clogged Sink in Woonsocket, RI, Clogged Toilet in Woonsocket, RI, How to Unclog a Bath Tub Drain in Woonsocket, RI&Garbage Disposal Not Working in Woonsocket, RI

Septic Problems In Franklin, Ma Part – III


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From a sewer and drain cleaner/plumber’s perspective, the following video is almost right. Please watch the following You tube video in order to have an understanding of the following steps.

This information will be useful for the do-it-yourself drain cleaner fattempting to clear a blocage on a bathroom sink. Anchor Sewer and Drain Cleaning wants to help you help yourself. In the event the bathroom sink does not drain, after implementing the following steps, give us a call. There are times when circumstances exist, which will not permit the use of the following steps in order to clear a drain.

  1. You will need to remove the water from the sink and drain pipe, at least to the trap.
  2. Remove the trip lever (ball and rod in video)
  3. Remove the pop-up plug
  4. Reinstall the trip lever
  5. Fill the sink bowl half full of water.
  6. Cover the over flow with one hand
  7. Place a plunger over the drain and plunge with the standing water. If water is beginning to drain out while plunging, add some water and remove the plunger to see if the sink will drain.
  8. Once the sink drains and water has been running for about 30 seconds and draining out of the sink, shut the faucet off and remove the trip lever.
  9. Reinstall the trip lever and pop up plug. Lower the pop up plug through the mouth of the drain. Insert the trip lever through the back of the drain assembly while catching the pop -up plug.
  10. When you are sure you have caught the trip lever, thread the trip lever back down to the drain assembly tee.


That is how to get a bathroom sink to drain. If this does not work for you, please don’t feel bad. You probably have a stubborn blockage in which case, you need a professional. Give Anchor Sewer and Drain Cleaning a call at 508-530-1062 in S.E. Massachusetts. Or, if you live in Rhode Island, call 508-838-9645.

Discover what makes drain cleaning different from sewer cleaning in technique, machinery and knowledge by visiting “Drain Cleaning Service” .

Diagnosing and fixing the drainage problem for a sink, shower or bathtub may be a long and difficult process. Be safe. If fixing the issue is something that is risky or not being understood, contact a drain service company. The range of pricing for a company who cares to do the job correctly is within $145.00 – $225.00. This depends on material used in piping, age of the house which would help the plumber understand the plumbing code that was used in assembling the plumbing system, access to the plumbing and what is assumed to be creating the blockage.

For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Septic Tank Problems in Franklin, Ma, Septic Tank Maintenance in Franklin, Ma & Pipe Video Inspection in Smithfield, RI

Septic Problems In Franklin, Ma Part – II


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Clogged drain lines occur due to freezing. If there is moisture, and the temperature is freezing or below, you can develop a frozen drain or vent.

You are washing dishes and pull the plug to allow the water in the sink to drain. Suddenly, the drain stops. You try drain opening chemicals. You plunge the sink in a manner that looks as if you entered a cow milking contest. You attempt to use a drain auger (cable or snake). Nothing is working.

You will notice one of two conditions. You cable so far, and your cable seems to have hit a brick wall. Or, you cable until you have no cable left and have not encountered any resistance and still no drainage. Seems impossible, right? You won’t know the reality until it has happened to you. Aside from having grease buildup or food blocking the drain line, frozen drain piping may be the reason your sink will not drain. In the illustration above, freezing occurs two ways.

  1. A sink on an outside wall will slowly accumulate ice as water flows and disperses. Water runs in and settles at a point where the temperature inside the wall is freezing or below. Each time the fixture must use the drain, another layer of ice builds on top of what was previously formed.

If you have a garbage disposer (garbage disposal), you will actually accelerate the process of creating a blockage. What you are doing when using your disposal during freezing conditions is not just adding water to the drain as it is building the restricting layers of ice. But, you are adding density. Build up occurs faster. So, in freezing weather, avoid using the garbage disposer.

  1. In addition to the description above, another way for blockage to occur is by restricting air flow. Frost accumulates in the plumbing vent.

Vapor from sewer gas or steam from hot water rises and settles against the interior of the vent pipe. Given enough time, the vent becomes restricted with a buildup of frost, formed by vapors and or steam.

How to thaw your frozen drain. First, be sure the vent is not the problem. If you are cabling your sink drain and encounter no resistance, know your vent is within 6 ft. – 8 ft. from the trap and you have put 10 ft. to 15 ft. of cable in the drain line, you may have restriction in the vent. Go up on the roof and look down the pipe that is smallest and comes through the roof, closest to your sink location. If you see frost, in the pipe, run water from the garden hose down the vent. If the vent overflows, push the hose down the vent pipe as far as it will go. Chances are, you are now getting the warmer water directly onto the spot where the vent pipe is restricted with frost. When the water begins to drain, congratulations, you have now restored the vent and may now have a functional sink drain, providing you do not also have a frozen drain in the wall.

If your drain arm in the wall has frozen, allow heat to the cabinet where the pipe disappears into the wall. Now, you are going to have to go through a long process of running scalding hot water until the sink backs up, vacuum the water completely out of the sink and the drain line. Repeat the process. Eventually, the ice will melt and you will have to minimize the use of that sink until the weather returns to normally expected temperature. I did this recently and it took over two hours to restore flow to the drain.

Diagnosing and fixing the drainage problem for a sink, shower or bathtub may be a long and difficult process. Be safe. If fixing the issue is something that is risky or not being understood, contact a drain service company. The range of pricing for a company who cares to do the job correctly is within $145.00 – $225.00. Sewer cleaning service may be $245-$365. This depends on material used in piping, age of the house which would help the plumber understand the plumbing code that was used in assembling the plumbing system, access to the plumbing and what is assumed to be creating the blockage. Another consideration in pricing is what method is being used to clear a blockage. What machinery?


For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Clogged Sink in Franklin, Ma, Clogged Toilet in Franklin, Ma & Garbage Disposal Not Working in Franklin, Ma

Septic Problems In Franklin, Ma Part – I


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Water proofing a basement is not a service Anchor Sewer and Drain Cleaning is highly knowledgeable of. However, many times, we receive calls for flawed sump pump systems. In understanding the nature of water, mold and radon, Anchor Sewer and Drain cleaning witnesses many dewatering systems that just do not do the job well.

Review the following video, and find the system that best matches what you may have installed in your home. Compare it to The “Safe Basements Water Proofing” system and be objective on the effectiveness of your current system. You may contact “Safe Basements Water Proofing” and inquire of an installer in your area.


Conducting Rain

Rain leaders lead water away from a shelter. Underground or above ground, they are an effective means of protecting the foundation of a building. However, there is no proof positive method of preventing them from becoming stopped up by debris or just organic ‘muck’. Above ground, a rain leader is a bit more manageable for preventing and clearing a blockage. However, many people prefer to run the rain leader beneath ground, as an above ground installation presents many hazards and is a distraction when looking to present curb appeal.

Underground rain leaders may not be a good application for your property. Once water is in the ground, water spreads out and down. That same water you intend to move away from your property may, by capillary action, arrive under your foundation, beneath the basement floor.

Having extensions on a rain leader installed above ground are a trip hazard, nuisance, unappealing and make lawn care cumbersome. However, you will want to ensure the rain water is lead to a surface that will quickly lead the water further away from your home. Maybe to a driveway and hopefully the drive will have a storm drain near by.


Installation of in ground rain leaders is an attractive feature. The idea of not having rain water pooling in the yard gives peace of mind and is kind of intriguing. “Where does it go?” However, there is some worry attached to the possibility of having a blockage on the buried rain leader. “How will I fix that? How much will it cost?”

Clearing a Blockage from an Underground Rain Leader

A blockage in an underground rain leader is no longer a thing to be concerned with. Today’s technology for sewer and drain cleaning is also used in clearing blockages from underground rain leaders. Jetting, or pressure bladders are the instrument preferred. However, it is also possible to relieve a blockage with a cable. High pressure water can not always be used due to the possibility of having corrugated pipe buried in the yard as the conductor for the rain leader. High pressure can tear the pipe apart or a high pressure jetter hose may lodge in the earth when penetrating the pipe. If jetting is preferred, it is best to ask the drain cleaning technician to use caution and begin jetting with low pressure.


For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Sewer and Drain Maintenance in Milford, Ma, Sewer Blockage/Clogged Drain in Milford, Ma & Septic problems in Franklin, Ma

Septic Remediation In Woonsocket, RI Part – I


Sewer blockages and clogged drains in South Eastern Massachusetts and areas of Rhode Island often involve a mainline sewer trap. This trap can make clearing a sewer blockage very difficult. Understanding how the drain or sewer becomes clogged or slow to drain is key to avoiding costly, inconvenient and destructive sewer issues that carry a risk to the health of the occupants in the building.

Many times, there is no access to these traps. The picture above demonstrates the proper installation and clearing of a mainline sewer trap. However, if the cleanout risers are too deep, chances of getting a cable to move to the down stream side of the trap are slim. (notice the cable being inserted at an angle. This is difficult to do if the trap is set too deep into the ground.) It may be possible to move a cable through the trap from upstream. Though, the cable has a tendency to navigate from upstream, down to the bend of the trap and then strait up to the cleanout plug. So, proper access and installation is crucial to clearing a sewer line if there is a mainline trap installed on the sewer.

The most common way for a sink drain or branch line to develop a blockage is by misuse. Water and liquid should be the only elements to pass the strainer and enter the drain line. However, garbage disposers offer conveniences we take advantage of.

When a garbage disposer is in use, it should be operated with plenty of water and moderate waste. That seems obvious. However, many people operate garbage disposers simply believing, since they no longer see the debris, the disposer has thoroughly done the job. The power switch and water are shut off and there sits a fine blend of organic sludge, waiting for the next use of the disposer.

Bathroom sink and tub blockages develop from a plethora of chemical compounds of different consistencies. Mouthwash, toothpaste, soaps, lotions, shaving cream, oils,…etc. all contribute to clogged drains in our bathroom drain line, or branch line. The branch lines are what allow gray water to flow to the sewer. However, the sewer line from the bathroom group which includes the toilet is also impacted by what flows from the tub and sink drain.

The material a sewer line or drain is comprised of must also be taken into consideration when we estimate what contributes to sewer and drain line failure. Cast iron and galvanized steel pipe rot from the inside out. Galvanic erosion also takes place when the sewer and drain line consists of dissimilar metals, such as copper drain lines joined to cast iron sewer lines. The electrolysis between the two metals helps build scale and iron oxide deposits, where debris lodge and build restriction.

Scale and iron deposits form in steel and iron sewer systems, pitting the pipe. This allows for pockets of particulate matter to lodge and begin building “sewer sludge”. The sewer sludge begins to build and over time, the inside diameter of the pipe is restricted.

Restriction of the sewer and drain lines are in essence a clog. Sewage and grey water flows slower. The lines were originally installed with consideration to size and gallons per minute the drain lines would need to convey the sewage to the sewer. Though water is flowing, you will notice it does not leave the tub or sink basin as quickly as it use too. This should be taken as a precursor to a blockage.

Finally, the main sewer line blockage. The main line fails in the same way the plumbing group drain does but, on a larger scale. Buildup in the main sewer line is often referred to as a “grease” by sewer and drain cleaners. When grease buildup consumes the sewer line, the sewer cleaning technician may offer ‘hydro-scrubbing’ in lieu of cabling the line to clear the blockage and restore the sewer line to optimum performance.

The main sewer line does often suffer from sludge and grease. However, there is another foe that prevails more often. That is “root intrusion”.

Root intrusion can devastate a sewer line. The roots begin infiltrating the sewer line through failed seals in the line. This type of pipe is known as “gasket pipe”. The gasket or seal in main lines wrought from years of submersion in water and various chemicals. Once the seal fails, sewage leaks into the soil and offers a nutrient rich water source for surrounding vegetation. Once the vegetation begins to infiltrate the sewer line by sending out the feeler roots, the roots grow larger and stronger over time. This is where serious trouble begins. The roots begin to force their way into the line. Pressing their way into an opening causing the pipe segments to spread or crack. Given enough time, the sewer line breaks or collapses, allowing dirt and debris into the line and most certainly results in line rehabilitation or an excavation to repair or replace the entire line.

In summary, this article implies the understanding of what must be done to protect our drain and sewer lines. To gain a deeper knowledge of sewer and drain line maintenance, see “Sewer and Drain Maintenance“.

Diagnosing and fixing the drainage problem for a sink, shower or bathtub may be a long and difficult process. Be safe. If fixing the issue is something that is risky or not being understood, contact a drain service company. The range of pricing for a company who cares to do the job correctly is within $145.00 – $225.00. Sewer cleaning service may be priced between $245 and $365. This depends on material used in piping, age of the house which would help the plumber understand the plumbing code that was used in assembling the plumbing system, access to the plumbing and what is assumed to be creating the blockage. Jetting may cost $465-$700 for non-franchised companies.


For more details on our products and services, please feel free to visit us at Drain Cleaning in Woonsocket, RI, Sewer Cleaning in Woonsocket, RI & Septic Remediation in Woonsocket, RI